Installation – Adhesive Backed

Please follow these instructions in order to make this installation an enjoyable experience.



Low VOC paints are driving change in wall film applications. The chemistry of paints and wall finishes has been changing over the years to drive down the level of Volatile Organic Compounds, VOCs, due to both sustainability efforts and regulatory requirements. These newer paint formulations have changed how the painted surface interacts with the adhesive on all films, affecting the films’ ability to adhere to the paint.

Simple steps can maximize film adhesion. Because the paint formulations are protected by trade secrets, it is difficult for any film manufacturer to understand how film adhesives interact with these paints. It has been found through recent testing with many low VOC paints that there is no single film or adhesive that works “best” on each paint tested. One film can perform well on one paint and poorly on another. However, by using the proper cleaning and testing procedures, you can quickly and easily determine how well the films you want to use will adhere, and then successfully install the job.

  1. Outgassing resulting from uncured paint

As paint dries, it releases certain gases until it is fully dried and cured. Applying a film before the paint has fully cured can result in lifting, bubbles and a premature installation failure. Unfortunately, there is no way to test for this. Cure time varies greatly and can be as long as 30 days.

  1. Paint particle migration

Particles in the paint can migrate to the surface over time. The first time you clean the wall with Isopropyl Alcohol mixture (you’ll do it twice), you may notice a powdery substance on the cleaning cloth, the same color as the paint.

Migrated particles not only affect initial adhesion if the wall is not properly cleaned, but can also affect film removal later on.

  1. Differences in paint finishes

While films have historically adhered best to semi-gloss finishes, proper testing and preparation of every type of painted wall is now required to ensure success.


  1. Prepare a cleaning solution with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and 30% water in a spray bottle.
  2. Soak a clean, lint-free cloth with the cleaning solution until it is dripping wet.
  3. Clean the application area with overlapping strokes. You may notice some migrated paint particles on the cloth.
  4. Change cleaning cloths often to avoid redepositing contaminants on another part of the wall. Soak each new cloth with the cleaning solution.
  5. Thoroughly soak another clean, lint-free cloth with the cleaning solution and wash the wall again.
  6. The alcohol in the cleaning solution will lower the surface temperature of the wall as much as 10 degrees F – a noticeable different. When the alcohol has completely flashed off, which takes about 10 minutes, the wall will return to its normal temperature. When it no longer feels cool, it is dry and you can proceed with the film installation.



  1. Measure the wall height and width to confirm it matches the installation instructions. The wall covering will overlap onto the ceiling, base and sides approximately 2 inches.
    1. Separate the liner from the film.
    2. Roll back the edge of the film and make a straight cut through just the liner, right next to the tape hinge. Remove the liner, or as much as needed.
    3. Keep some tension on the film while squeegeeing to help it stay flat and smooth. Sometimes this requires holding both film and liner during part of the installation.
    4. Starting with the middle of the film, squeegee to one edge, return to the center, and squeegee to the other edge.
      1. Always push the air toward the nearest edge in either the 10:00 o’clock or 2:00 o’clock position.
      2. Always end the squeegee stroke past the edge of the film.
  • Overlap every stroke by about half the width of the squeegee.
  1. As needed, lift the film, grasp both sides of the liner, and pull away a few inches of liner. Continue applying film as before.
  2. Before the job is considered done:
    1. Visually inspect how well the film is conforming—even to an apparently smooth wall.
    2. Even an apparently smooth wall may have more texture than you realize. If you don’t use firm, overlapping strokes, you may not get full adhesive contact with the wall.
  • Take time to re-squeegee all film edges, which are the most vulnerable.


  1. Horizontal Hinge Method – Most Common
    1. Tape the film to the wall in the desired position.
    2. Apply a piece of tape horizontally across the film, 6 to 8 inches below the top edge.
    3. Remove the positioning tape strips.
    4. Separate the liner from the film.
    5. Refer to general installation method
  2. Vertical Hinge Method –
    Ideal for panels that are wider than they are tall

    1. Tape the film to the wall in the desired position.
    2. Apply a strip of tape vertically down the middle of the film.
    3. Separate the liner from the film.
    4. Refer to general installation method
  3. Self-Hinge Method
    Ideal for smaller film panels; self-hinge can be made at the top of the film or in the center of it.

    1. Lay the film side down on a clean work table.
    2. Using a liner cutter, cut through just the liner going across the shortest width of the film.
    3. Make another liner cut about four inches from the first and remove the strip of liner.
    4. Position the film on the wall and use your fingers to lightly adhere the film to the wall in the area of the exposed adhesive.
    5. Squeegee the film along the exposed adhesive working towards the nearest edge.
    6. Refer to general installation method